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HOW DO I GET READY FOR TILE?
First you need to get your old surface out of the way so you can install your backing and your tile. Remove old carpet and strips and get rid of the staples or glue. Remove the sheet vinyl along with its underlayment if at all possible. Remove the plumbing such as the commode and pedestal sink. Remove the trim and tub and shower spouts from the walls to be tiled.

CAN I TILE OVER MY OLD TILE?
Yes, you can. Just make sure it is in sound condition and use one of the super modified thinset mortars for the job. If the tile are starting to fall off or coming loose, remove them and start new.

CAN I TILE OVER PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD?
I know you see tiling over wood shown on TV, however, I do not recommend it. Most of the repairs I have done were because of tiling directly over a wood surface. A cement backer board properly installed will be a more permanent installation. Proper installation is shown in detail in video #1.

CAN I TILE OVER A CRACKED CONCRETE SLAB?
Yes, however, you need to first treat the cracked area with an isolation membrane. Several are available to the tile stores and not all are real easy to use. The one I can recommend for easy use and remarkable results is Ultra Set by Hydroment, A product of Bostik. Find Bostik by clicking on my helpful links button on my home page. Ultra Set is a gel that can be trowelled over the crack and about 6 inches on each side of it. This material is also water proof and it can be used to actually set the tile rather than thinset mortar.

CAN I TILE OVER MY VINYL OR LINOLEUM FLOORING?
It is best to remove the vinyl flooring if at all possible along with its underlayment if it has one. Some sheet vinyl flooring is only glued around the edges and at the seams. If you tile directly over that material, your entire floor will be loose. A layer of cement board should be used either in place of or over the vinyl flooring. If the vinyl is over a concrete slab, however, and it isn't possible to remove the it, you may tile directly over it using one of the super modified thinset mortars made for this kind of application. Installation of the cement board etc. can be found in video #1. With the tips shown, it is lots easier to handle the cement board!

CAN I TILE OVER LAMINATE COUNTER TOPS?
Yes, you can tile directly over laminates like Formica as long as it is not loose. I don't recommend tiling over the 'self edge' however, because I find that narrow strip on the edge likes to come off. I guess it wouldn't hold tile very well. Use one of the Super modified thinsets for over laminates.

HOW DO I REMOVE THE TILE AROUND MY SHOWER OR BATH TUB AREA?
If the tiles are coming loose because of the material behind it decomposing, you should cut the wall board just outside of the tile line and remove all of the tile along with its backing right down to the studs. Once it is clean, follow the instructions in video #1 for proper installation of the cement backer board.

HOW DO I MAKE THE PROPER SELECTION OF TILE?
Tile come in many different forms and compositions and it is a good idea to use the harder tile where lots of wear may occur. Porcelain tile can be either colored the same all the way through or glazed with your favorite colors. These tiles are incredibly hard and are used in the mall as the main walking surface. They will work very well for floors, counters and walls in your home. Usually they come in large sizes, so finding a design may be difficult. The more decorative tiles are usually softer and have a brighter glaze and are great for walls and back splashes but not good for floors. The marble, granite, slate, and sandstone tiles are also great for floors and can be used on walls, counters and back splashes. Check with your tile sales person for the best choice for your application.

HOW DO I MEASURE SO I BUY THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF TILES?
First, measure length and width of the area to be tiled and multiply one by the other. Next, add at least 10 % to that total. It may be a good idea to bring the measurement to the tile store and let the sales person help with the total needed so waste can be included. Plan on having tile left over rather than running short.

HOW DO I LAY OUT SO THE TILE LOOK GREAT WHEN I'M DONE WITH MY TILE PROJECT?
Some layout work is shown in video #1, however, I will give some more tips to help you: In any area, measure to find the center of the room or wall. Lay tile without thinset or glue from the center line to the edge of the area. Include the joint size, and find the distance from the last whole tile to fit to the edge. If that piece is 1/2 the width of a tile or more, you can do your lay out from that center line. If it is less than 1/2 of a tile, move the center line over so that the old center line lines up with the center of a tile. You have just moved the starting point over 1/2 the width of the tile so now you will have a larger than half tile at the edges.

HOW DO I LAY OUT MY FLOOR THROUGHOUT SEVERAL ROOMS?
It is easiest to lay out a multiple room area by laying the tile on a 45 degree angle. Any place the tile come to a small cut piece, right next to it is an almost whole one! First choose your most visible room and find the center of it form both directions. Strike a chalked line in the center of the room from the longest wall parallel with the longest wall. Next find the center of that line. From that point, using a 3-4-5 or 6-8-10 measurement, make a perfect square line off the long center line. Draw a square using these two lines and dissect it to find a perfect 45 degree angle. If you lay your first tile so all corners are on the center lines, it will be the best place to start your layout. Always lay some tiles dry to try for the look you want before mixing thinset mortar and starting your actual installation. To do a layout for several rooms on the square rather than on an angle, follow the same methods as for a single room. It will take some adjustment to make them all work and if there is a problem at the doorways, it isn't a bad idea to cut a tile down as a threshold to break up the joints so they don't have to follow into the other room. This also works if you are tiling on a diagonal.

WHERE DO I START?
After finding the center of wall or floor, I like to mark the area with a line to represent every other joint or tile edge. I measure the tile and include the joints and mark the floor or wall into squares so that 4 12X12 inch tile fit into a square along with the joint next to them. After marking the area, I can start anywhere as long as I stay within the square and always to the same edge of the square. After the first row, you can put the thinset over the lines because you will only need the line next to you and follow the other lines that will still show at that point.

WHAT GLUES OR ADHESIVES DO I USE?
For use under most cement board installation, I use one of the cheap non-modified thinset mortars. In all other cases, if I use thinset mortar I will use the modified or super modified type. If you are tiling over a cement board, it is a good idea to use thinset rather than a canned mastic. If it is a floor it is never a good idea to use any but one of the thinset mortars. On counter tops, it is usually ok to use mastic under and over the cement backer board. Walls in wet areas like showers and tub areas, should first have a cement backer, then tiled using at least a modified thinset mortar.

BACKSPLASHES?
Are usually stuck directly to sheet rock using a canned mastic. Don't tile over wall paper, remove it before doing your tile project.

SPACERS AND JOINT SIZES?
I like to use joint spaces about 1/8th inch wide if the tile are uniform enough. It is best to remove tile from several boxes and lay them down with the joint size you would like to see. Measure several tiles in a row including the joints to see what size grid you should draw on the floor. For walls, I like to use plastic spacers along with the little plastic wedges for fine adjustments. Larger joints are fine if that is the look you want. Please check your work with a long straight edge quite often because the spacers only follow the tiles and some of them are not uniform.

WHAT TYPE OF GROUT SHOULD I USE?
If you are using the soft ceramic tile, use the unsanded grout for the job. If your tiles are the frost free or floor type, including porcelain, granite and lots of the other single fired tiles, use the sanded grouts. Tile set touching or tight need to be grouted using either an unsanded grout or epoxy grout.

HOW DO I REMOVE THE GROUT HAZE?
Careful cleaning can still leave some film on the tile that seems impossible to remove. In most cases this simple system works very well: First wet the area so the grout joints are moist...If you don't, they may discolor. Next use Real-Lemon juice straight from either the lemon or the bottle. Wipe it on and let it stand a few minutes before scrubbing with a scotch-brite pad. Rinse and repeat as needed.

DO I NEED SEALERS FOR MY TILE?
Some tiles need sealers and most of them are the natural stone tiles. Sealers can be found in the tile store and their uses can be best named by the tile sales person for your particular tile installation. A link to Aquamix can be found from my home page link button. They have lots to say about sealers.

CAN MY TILE BE PAINTED?
Most paints will not stick to your tile if it is already on the wall of floor. There are some companies who re-glaze bath tubs and sinks and some of them will paint your tile with the same material. It is more efficient to tile directly over your old tile if it is in sound condition and you only want to up-date the look.

HOW DO I REMOVE A CHIPPED OR CRACKED TILE FOR REPLACEMENT?
First, using a cement board scribing tool or a grout saw, remove the grout from around the damaged tile. Next, strike it with a hammer to 'soften it up'. Now, using a small chisel, chip out the pieces and get it cleaned back down to the surface below the thinset mortar. Mix a bit of thinset mortar and install your new tile. Grout it after it firms up so it won't move while cleaning it up. WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR for this project!

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