Please look through this list of questions to see if yours is there. My answers are there too!

Can I use paypal to pay for my DVDs?

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How do I get ready for tile?

First you need to get your old surface out of the way so you can install your backing and new tile. Remove old carpet and strips and get rid of the staples and or glue. Remove sheet vinyl along with its underlayment if there is one. Remove the plumbing such as the commode and pedestal sink. Remove the trim and tub and shower spouts from the walls to be tiled. All surfaces need to be clean and dry before beginning the finish tile work.

Can I tile over my old tile? Or can I paint my tile?

Yes, you can tile directly over your old tile. Just make sure it is in sound condition and use one of the modified thinset mortars for the job. If the tile are loose, just plan on removing them and start new.

Please don't paint your old tile. The results are less than desirable as the paint will scratch and come off in places with agressive cleaning you could do if it were glazed tile.

Can I tile over plywood or particle board?

I know you see tiling over wood shown on TV, however, I do not recommend it. Most of the repairs I have done were because of tiling directly over a wood surface. Tile and wood do not react the same with moisture and temperature changes. A cement backer board properly installed will be a more permanent installation. Follow the Do-it-Yourself Tile DVD.

Can I tile over a cracked concrete slab?

Yes, but first you need to treat the slab with an isolation membrane so the cracks in the concrete don't come up through the tile.

Check with your tile store for the best membrane for your application. Some of these are waterproof self-sticking, and others need to be set into the thinset mortar. Check instructions that come with your choice of membranes.

Can I tile over my vinyl or linoleum flooring?

It is best to remove the vinyl flooring if at all possible along with its underlayment if it has one. Some sheet vinyl flooring is only glued around the edges and at the seams. If you tile directly over that material, all the floor tile will be loose! A layer of cement board should be used either in place of or over the vinyl flooring. If the vinyl is over a concrete slab, and it isn't possible to remove it, use a good modified thinset mortar made for this kind of installation. Check with the tile store so you get the right kind. Use the Do-it-Yourself Tile DVD for instructions making it easier to handle the cement board.

Can I tile over laminate counter tops?

Yes, you can tile directly over laminate tops if they are not loose. The self edge will not hold tile and need either a wood trim or a tile over cement board edge. Thinset mortar is so strong it may try to pull the laminate right off the surface, so I recommend using short roofing nails in a 6 to 8 inch pattern to hold it down. The flat nail heads are easy to cover with the thinset, then tile.

How do I remove the tile around my shower or bath tub area?

If the tiles are coming loose because of the material behind them decomposing, you should cut the wall board just outside of the tile line and remove all of the tile along with its backing, right down to the studs. A good 15 minute tutorial on this is in the Do-it-Yourself Tile DVD. It also shows floor removal.

How do I make the proper selection of tile?

Tile come in many different forms and compositions and it is a good idea to use the harder tile where lots of wear, or water may be an issue. Hard tile such as porcelain wear so well that they are used on the shopping mall floor where there is lots of foot traffic. In showers and other wet areas, it is a good idea to use the hard, 'frost free' type of tile so they don't soak up water like the old soft tiles do. Mildew is always an issue in damp areas, so don't use the tile that hold onto lots of water. Stone tile such as granite, marble, slate, limestone and sandstone work well for both floors and walls. These need a sealer to keep oils and other materials from discoloring them. Backsplashes and other areas where you want a decorative tile are good places to use the softer kinds of tile with their pretty designs and/or colors.

How do I measure so I buy the right amount of tile?

First, measure length and width of the area to be tiled and multiply length X width.

If you measured in feet, the answer will be the total square feet of the area. If you measured in inches, just divide that answer by 144, so you will have the square feet in the area. Usually add 10% to that total to allow for waste. Bring a drawing with measurements along to the tile store and let the sales person help so you get enough. It's better to have some left over rather than run out.

How do I lay out the tile so they work for my area?

In any area find the center and figure from there. Measure the width of the room and divide that number in half, then do the same with the length of the room. This will be the center to start your layout from. Lay some tiles (without the thinset) leaving the grout space between them, from the center to the outside wall. Now measure from the last whole tile to fit to see if 1/2 piece of tile or larger will be needed to reach the wall. If that is how it works out, use that center line for the layout from that direction. If it is smaller than 1/2 a tile, you can figure on moving that center line over exactly 1/2 the width of a tile and start your layout from there. Repeat the process from the other wall. My Do-it-Yourself Tile DVD shows this layout system.

How do I lay out my floor throughout several rooms?

First choose the room that gets most of the attention so it will look great even if some of the other areas may have some really small pieces at the edges. Measure from your longest wall and mark the floor the same from both ends and snap a chalked line. Now do the same from the other direction, but just mark that snapped line. If you have a laser square, this is the place to use it to get the other direction square with the first. The formula to find the square is simple without math: Measure 3 feet from the center point and make a mark, now mark at 4 feet approximately square from the center point. The distance between these two marks need to be exactly 5 feet. (this will look like a triangle) Just move the 4 feet mark over to where it is exactly 5 feet between the 3 foot mark and the 4 foot mark. Larger areas: Any doubling of these numbers work 3-4-5 or 6-8-10 or 12-16-20, etc. Feet, inches Metrics also work just fine. Use the squared lines to guide your final layout lines. The same squared lines give you a start for a perfectly square box to find a 45 degree angle should you choose to lay your tile on an angle.

What glues or adhesives do I use?

For use under most cement board installation, I use the less expensive non-modified thinset mortar. For that and all other installation the modified thinset works just fine. The canned mastic is easy to use and is fine for the backsplash tile if the tiles are small enough, but it is way to soft to use to lay floor tile. Large tiles cover the mastic enough to keep it from hardening. The modified thinset mortar comes in either white or gray and can be used anywhere the tile can properly be applied.

Why put thinset mortar UNDER the cement board?

When any of the cement backers are installed, nails, screws, or staples are used. Each place one of those fasteners comes through the back of the board, a small blister or bump is formed holding the part of the board between the fasteners a tiny bit above the subfloor. The thinset you spread under the cement board fills those little areas as well as uneven places on the subfloor. Without something solid between the fasteners, the board will flex just enough to start either loosening the grout, loosening the tile or making the tile crack when something or somebody puts pressure on it. In wet areas, if you use the modified thinset, it helps to make the floor more water resistant. Do not wait for the thinset to get set hard before nailing, screwing or stapling the cement board in place.

Backsplashes?

Backsplash tiles can be stuck directly over painted and or sealed drywall or plaster using the canned mastic if the tile are not too large, or use the modified thinset mortar. If the tile are too large, the canned mastic never gets hard, as it needs air to dry, unlike thinset mortar which sets up like cement even when no air is there to dry it.

Please do not lay tile over wall paper! It may seem sound, but when the adhesive's moisture gets into the paper, it usually comes loose, along with your tile.

Spacers and joint sizes?

If the tile are quite uniform, a joint about 1/8th inch wide works well. To see if the tile are fairly uniform, remove one each from several boxes and compare. A wider joint is ok, but harder to make grout work nice. The perfectly ground marble and granite tiles are usually placed tight together or very nearly so. Do not depend on the spacers to keep your tile perfectly in line. Either follow a line on the floor or at least try a straight edge to assure the tiles line up.

I usually measure several tile along with their grout joint and draw squares on the floor all over so I can start anywhere and still come out nice and straight in the open areas. Just use the squared lines for this kind of layout. An example: the squares I draw with pencil or chalked lines are large enough for 4- 12x12 inch tiles and their joints.

What type of grout should I use?

The soft designer tiles that soak water up easily need to be grouted with a 'dry grout' otherwise known as unsanded grout. This grout can also be used for the granite and marble tile you set tight together. An epoxy grout is also used sometimes for those tight joints. Joints 1/8th inch wide or wider require the sanded type of grout. Check with the tile store for the right grout for your project.

How can I remove the grout haze?

Careful cleaning can still leave a little bit of grout haze or film on your tile and may seem impossible to remove. After the joints have cured several days, wet the tile so the joints are damp so they won't discolor. Now use real lemon juice either straight from the lemon or from the bottle and wet the area with that. Allow it to set a few minutes and scrub it around a little using a non metal scrub pad or brush. Now rinse with clean water. Repeat if necessary.

Do I need sealer for my tile?

Most stone tiles require a sealer if they may get stained from cooking oils, bath oils or other stuff like wine, make up, etc. A good sealer can be found either keeping the natural color, or the enhanced or wet look. Be sure which one looks best before putting sealer on your stone tile.

Glazed or porcelain tile generally do not need sealer, however, their joints should be sealed, and it is ok to get some on the tile too. Check with your tile store for the look you want and the results you desire.

How do I remove a damaged tile for replacement?

Using a cement board scribing tool or a grout saw, remove all or most of the grout from around the bad tile. Next, 'soften' the tile a little by striking it with a sharp hammer blow. Now use a small chisel and remove the pieces and scrape the adhesive off down to the backer surface, mix a little thinset mortar and put your new tile in there. Let it harden before grouting.

PLEASE WEAR PROTECTIVE EYEWARE for this project.

A good tutorial on tile removal can be found in my Do-it-Yourself Tile DVD.

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Just ask Hank a question and he will give his answer free of charge!  hank@hankthetiledoctor.com